Tony Pantalleresco Radio Show Notes – Show, Week of 13th April 2013

Show of The Month April 13 2013

Morgellon Remedies

How to Make A Filter

Filtration and Distillation

Quick reference chart for RADAR neurological reprogramming experiments and kill ratio statistics
Recharging Alkalines

Treating Skin Blemishes


Morgellon Remedies
Spray topical—mix a salt solution —while simmering or heating water add table salt to this until saturated ( mix in the salt little at a time—allow it to dissolve and repeat this til the water can no longer dissolve the salt) then add TSP 20 grams—and vinegar 2 oz and distilled water 2 cups stir this til it dissolves—when it has stop the stove pour into a container ( preferably glass) do not pour in if the solution is to hot—allow to cool before pouring
Add the content to a spray bottle—then spray afflicted areas—-use on pets as well—to alleviate the blotching and the out break

THINGS TO DO IN CONJUNCTION WITH THIS—if applying to animals do not feed them any grain based foods or mixes –these grains and soy will further exasperate the out break –the same is applicable to people—NO RICE-CORN-PASTA-CEREAL-BREAD-PASTRIES-BOXED OR BAGGED GRAIN TYPE FOODS—DO NOT FEED ANIMALS THESE EITHER—NO MILK BONE OR COOKIE SNACKS FOR THE DOGS OR CATS OR ANY OTHER CARNIVORE LIKE ANIMALS
Creams and Lotions
Make a cream or lotion by adding either sunflower lecithin or egg yolk lecithin to assist the cells in the skin to restore there connections –to make add your bees wax—salt and oils such as coconut—palm or shea butter or any other base you desire ( avoid soy )—add an essential oil of choice—if you wish a disinfectant then apply the woodier oils such as rosemary thyme sage pine fir etc —citrus lime lemon orange etc once you melt your fats the in the blender add your salt more essential oils —you can add as a preservative either rosemary essential oil or sage or ( BHT) water ( distilled) and alcohol ( vodka-gin-or any clear base alcohol) about 1 oz water you will gradually increase to desired levels of thickness for the cream or lotion—use xanthium gum to bind the materials so they do not separate( fat and water will separate unless you have a binding agent)blend this altogether adding water as needed and xanthium—til you get the desired texcture—put in glass jar and apply after cleaning areas—will help in the restoration of the fat cells
Make a saline solution of these ingredients where you add salt ( table will be good) 1 cup-epsom salt 1 cup-baking soda ½ cup-borax ½ cup and a iodine soap 1 oz and fill the tub with hot water as hot as you can handle—sit in it for at the least 20 – 30 minutes lightly scrubbing with either a wash cloth or a brush and releasing the cells from the polymers and breaking the biofilm— This will remove radiation as well as particulates caught in the skin

Internal Extraction—utilize pectin internally— and add to it wine—or a extract of grape raison—in this mix this will draw out from the colon and draw it out of a person—-take raisons and add to wine in a pot and heat-simmer it down to about half and then when done turn of stove and then add to a blender and blend together and strain— mix this with pectin…

How to Make A Filter

1) Find a plastic bag (preferably with handles)

2) place charcoal at the bottom, next sand, next pebbles, another layer of sand and more rocks.

3) tie the handles of the plastic bag to a tree branch or a hook to elevate the bag (like shown in picture).

4) pour the water in the bag.

5) poke a small hole at the bottom of the bag.

6) place a water container or jar at the bottom to catch the clean water.

This only removes large sediment and the charcoal improves the taste, note: this DOES NOT FULLY PURIFY WATER.

Also, you can purchase a “almond milk bag” or a “mesh screen bag” on Amazon to make this process even easier, or just use a shirt or cloth to remove the large particles.

If you use this below ground tehnique you should boil the water for 10 minutes at a steady boil before drinking, or use iodine tablets to be safe.–Also you can purchase a “LifeStraw” its basically a filter that is a shape of a straw so you can drink unpureified water straight from the device. It gets rid of 100 percent waterborne bacteria and 98.7 percent of viruses and particles. Five million people per year die from waterborne illness, mostly children and people that have compromised immune systems.

It’s not safe to drink unpurified water from the below-ground technique, you can catch Cryptosporidium or other viruses even parasites if you don’t purify the water. You should

1) get a reliable water filter like the lifeStraw.
2) Boil the water for 10 minutes at a steady boil.
3) Use iodine tablets.


Filtration and Distillation

All of these condensation techniques produce clean, distilled water ready to drink water. Distillation removes 99% of all contaminants, however you may get a few stray plant or soil particles doing this. In that case you might want to filter it out, re-distill or boil the water just to make sure it’s safe to drink.

Filter out large particles-You can use a t-shirt or a mesh screen bag to filter out big particles, you can find “almond milk bags” online that work quite well, but if you’re in a pinch you can always make one——Take a bag, fill it with pebbles/rocks, next layer would be charcoal, next would be more pebbles/rocks, next would be sand, more pebbles/rock. Then hand the plastic bag on a tree branch or hook and pour in the dirty water, now cut a tiny hole at the bottom and let the water slowly drip down into a container, this will take care of removing any sediment and charcoal improves the taste. (note: This doe not fully purify water)—– Purifying Water:

There are two ways of doing this, boiling the water for 10 minutes at a steady boil, or distillation. Distillation is basically what we did above, using heat to steam water, the water transpiring or condensing and turning into pure drinking water.

If you have dirty water, rain water, ocean water, or otherwise questionable drinking water, purify it by using distillation.

Solar Distillation-–If you have no access to fire, use this method. This is the same concept as the solar still technique, you are using heat of the sun to distill water. You would need a large metal bowl, plastic wrap, a rock, and a small container to catch the clean water. Fill the metal bowl with the dirty or questionable water, place the small container in the middle, cover the large metal bowl with plastic (make sure that its completely sealed), then place a rock in the middle on-top of the plastic wrap or sheeting. Now, place this contraption in the sun. In no time you will have pure drinking water!

Fire Distiller–Same concept as the solar distiller but you’re using fire to heat up a large pot of dirty water so the steam catches on a sheet of plastic and drips down into a cup(s). — Prepare a campfire, get a metal pot. Then construct a makeshift arch above the campfire about 3-4 ft tall over the campfire using sticks (it should resemble a door frame). Then cover the top of the arch with long plastic sheeting so that it’s over the pot and the campfire (the plastic sheet should be 1-2 feet over the boiling pot). Tie the corners of the plastic with sticks and anchor to the ground, make the plastic somewhat loose and not too tight. Now on each side, place a rock on the plastic, and under the rock place a water container (like the solar still technique), do this on each side. Now get a campfire going, place the pot on the campfire and pour in the dirty water, get the water to a roaring boil. The steam from the boiling water should rise up towards the plastic sheeting, and gravity should eventually move the condensation where the rock weights have been placed, and the condensation should drip into the water containers that have been placed on the ends of the plastic sheeting. You can constantly fill up the pot with dirty water, in this video it shows survivalists pouring sea water into the boiling pot while doing other survival tasks.


Recharging Alkalines

While waiting for my battery tester and alkaline charger to arrive, I sorted through the box, weeding out any leakers as well as odd ball batteries such as cell phone and hearing aid batteries. According to Wikipedia, the reason a battery leaks is this:

As batteries discharge — either through usage or gradual self-discharge — the chemistry of the cells changes and some hydrogen gas is generated. This out-gassing increases pressure in the battery. Eventually, the excess pressure either ruptures the insulating seals at the end of the battery, or the outer metal canister, or both. In addition, as the battery ages, its steel outer canister may gradually corrode or rust, which can further contribute to containment failure.

Surprisingly, most of the batteries in my box were clean. Something to keep in mind as you go through the sorting process is that if there is even a single leaker in the box, the residue can spread on to other batteries so it helps to have a rag handy to wipe each battery off to see if it is okay. If you even suspect that a battery has leaked, or if shows any rust or corrosion, don’t take a chance. Throw the baddies back in to the recycle box.


I purchased an inexpensive battery tester from Amazon. There was nothing special about it and it was easy to use. Plus, it had the ability to test 9V batteries as well as button batteries and the traditional AA, AAA, C and D sized batteries.

I then set to work, testing each and every battery in my box. Much to my surprise, there were a number of batteries that tested “fully charged”. It is interesting to note that many were 9 Volt batteries that came out of one of my carbon monoxide detectors. This leads me to believe that the detector is bad and not the batteries.

Furthermore, I now believe that what commonly happens is that, for example, a remote control or flashlight is dead. You dump the batteries into the recycle box and install new ones. Easy peasy. But in truth, perhaps only a single battery of the 2 or 3 are bad so in effect, you are dumping out 1 discharged battery and 2 or 3 perfectly usable batteries. I even proved this myself. Since I now keep one of these $8 testers in my desk drawer, when my wireless mouse died a couple of days ago, I found that only one of the two AAA batteries that I had removed was dead. The other was showing almost a full charge. Go figure.

The other thing, and something that makes me feel careless and stupid, there were some perfectly good rechargeable batteries in the box. Now how the heck did that happen?


After reading reviews on various rechargers, I settled on the Maximal Power FC999 Universal Battery Charger. It wasn’t the most expensive available but according to a couple of the reviewers, this unit was exactly the same as a higher priced model. The difference was that this one is black and the other one was gray.—Now here is the deal with this charger. It has four separate charging chambers that operate independently of each other. This means that you can mix and match battery sizes (AA, AAA, C, D) without a problem. It also has a center 9V battery chamber but I have not been able to figure out whether that piggy backs upon one of the adjacent chambers or whether it operates separately.

Note: this charger can also be used to charge Ni-cd and Ni-MH batteries but I only tested it on Alkaline batteries. There is a slider switch that allows you to select the type of batteries you are charging – they can not and should not be mixed and matched by type (although, as I mentioned, various sizes of the same type work just fine.)

There is no question that I experienced a bit of trepidation when I inserted the batteries into the charger for the first time. But there was no smoke and no explosion so I continued on.

A few seconds after you insert the batteries, the tester will recognize the status and the LED window will either say “CHA” (for charging) or “BAD” (for sorry, this is a bad battery and it cannot be charged). In addition, the following lights will glow:

Red – Charging
Green – Fully Charged
Red Flashing – BAD
As I mentioned above, each of the four chamber operates independently so you could have a combination of these three options all going at once.

There is a chart in the manual that indicates that a AAA battery will take 2.5 hours to charge, a AA 5 hours, a C size 6 hours, and a D sized 10 hours. In my experience, however, they charge to the fully-charged, green light stage a lot sooner that than. Now here is the thing. Once fully charged, the charger switches to a trickle charge to keep the battery “at its optimum capacity” whatever that means.

My experience is that if you leave the recharged batteries in the charger overnight – or say for about 10 or 12 hours – you will get a much stronger charge. I say this because I first tested some batteries right after the green light came on. On my tester, they would register at about the half way mark in the fully-charged area. If I put them back in the charger, the green fully-charged light would come on right away but when I took them out the next morning, the tester showed them about 90% charged.–After doing this a few times, I realized that next on my bucket list was a tester that would give me the actual voltage of the re-charged battery. My brother and nephew – both electronics wizards – have one and tell me that is the only way to truly test the remaining juice left in a used battery.


The little manual that came with the charger stated that alkaline batteries can be charged to 75 – 90% of their original capacity. It further said that the batteries should be fully drained before recharging but I found that as a practical matter, the fully drained batteries came up “BAD” and could not be recharged at all.

There is one more rather important note that I want to make. I checked on my recharged batteries about two weeks after storing them in a box in my utility cupboard. Much to my surprise there were some new leakers. Now whether these were overlooked initially (had I wiped away the residue not realizing they were compromised) or a byproduct of the charging process – I do not know. Even more curious, they were all the Costco Kirkland brand batteries.

The manual also indicates that alkaline batteries should not be recharged more than 30 times. 30 times – holy moly – that seems like a lot of charging to me. For now, I will charge them once until I go through the pile and then start anew. But 30 times? I am going to play it safe and protect my devices by recharging no more than a dozen times if that.


Using the recharged batteries on low power devices such as mini LED flashlights and of course, my computer mouse, worked great. As a matter of fact, I can not tell the difference between the recharged Alkalines and standard rechargeables. On the other hand, the Survival Husband uses wireless headphones to watch TV and the recharged alkalines only last abut 8 hours as opposed to the typical 15 to 20 hours with standard Ni-mh rechargeables.

Storing the Battery

I purchased these inexpensive storage cases for my recharged batteries. They are really quite handy and I like that the six individual cases interlock and connect together to make a larger case. The rest of my spares are in the plastic pencil case you see pictured above.


For a total investment of about $34 I now have what for all intents and purposes, a lifetime of free batteries. The reason I say “lifetime” is that my friends have indicated an willingness to give me all of their dead batteries and you can bet that many will still be either good as is or eligible for recharging.

Would I trust these recycled batteries in a survival situation – sure, if that is all I had, But of course, that is not the case. I still have a large supply of brand new alkaline batteries in all sizes plus a good supply of standard rechargeables (you know how I love those eneloop rechargeables).

But as spare batteries to use day to day, heck, these are great. As my tests have proven, a recharged alkaline battery can keep a small LED flashlight going to over a week and a computer mouse for much longer than that. As a matter of fact, you might say I have become obsessed with using these recharged alkaline batteries. But that, of course, is a story for another time

Treating Skin Blemishes

Hot steaming towels then are applied to the afflicted area at least three times and, afterward, the afflicted area is patted dry.

One tablespoon of common table salt is dissolved in one measuring cup of very hot water having a temperature of not more than 120° F. The salt is completely dissolved in the water and a facecloth is immersed and soaked in the salt water. Sea salt with naturally occurring substances may have antibacterial characteristics that are superior to ordinary table salt and thus, sea salt water may be preferable for use in this step of the treatment process. The salt kills, it is believed, through osmosis.

A towel is folded lengthwise and then across. One side of the towel is thoroughly saturated with ordinary tap water and then folded into thirds in order to keep the wetted side of the towel on the inside of the folds. The towel is heated, preferably in a toaster oven or dryer, for several minute in order to heat the water in the wetted interior until it steams.
With the subject’s head slightly inclined to prevent inhalation of water from the towel (when treating facial acne), the hot salt water soaked facecloth is placed over the affected area, the saline water soaked facecloth then being covered by the unfolded steaming towel. Preferably, a second steaming towel can be placed over the first towel to maintain the facecloth’s heat for a longer period of time. Care must be taken, however, to make sure that these hot applications are sufficiently cool to avoid burning the skin that is undergoing treatment. With respect to this step in the treatment, it is thought that the hot applications help to further open the pores and gravity promotes flow of the saline water from the facecloth into the pores.

The heat, it seems, also promotes an increase in capillary blood flow that not only increases the supply of white and red blood cells to advance the healing process, but also removes waste products from the afflicted area. The effect of the heat applied to the subject’s skin also might destroy at least some of the bacteria that are related to the acne condition. As a general matter, heat may aid in the process in several ways. It may denature proteins, cause membrane damage and also may cause enzymatic cleavage of DNA. Moist heat, moreover, sterilizes at a lower temperature than dry heat because water serves to disrupt noncovalent bonds (hydrogen bonds) which hold protein chains together in their secondary and tertiary structures.

The steaming towel is replaced at least one more time, this replacement being repeated when the subject feels that the applied towel is no longer hot or has a noticeably elevated temperature. In this instance, the towel may actually be very warm, but the subject has at this point in the treatment become so conditioned to heat that the sensation of heat fails to register with the patient as being significant. The process temperatures need to be continually increased to and maintained at the desired levels to cause morbidity of proionibacterium acnes, dilation of the body’s own vascular structures to bring in the body’s own defensive mechanisms, remove waste through the dilated structures, and allow the salt to enter deep into the affected pilosebaceous unit. The salt will, but is not limited to, deprive the bacterium of water needed to survive, and the sodium that enters the bacterium’s membrane can not be excreted (it is a one-way trap for sodium, much like a diode is in electricity), but more water has to be brought into the bacteria to dilute the absorbed sodium until the bacteria actually ruptures.
After the last steaming towel is felt to be cool by the subject, the steaming towels and the underlying saline water soaked facecloth are removed.
The afflicted area then is further treated by being washed with a castile soap. For the purpose of the invention, the soap marketed as “Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps 18-in-1 Hemp Peppermint Pure-Castile Soap” has been found to be particularly efficacious. The Dr. Bronner’s soap that is used in the invention is a compound of water, saponified coconut-hemp-olive oils (with retained glycerin), olive fatty acids, peppermint oil (boosted with menthol), vitamin E, and citric acid.
The treated area is rinsed and dried, having on visual inspection a rosy appearance that will disappear in about twelve hours.
Within three days after treatment, the red pustules will be gone from the afflicted area, leaving only a few circular, dark brown freckle-like areas in those portions of the skin that were most seriously afflicted. To post treat these residual marks, a cotton applicator, soaked in either turpentine or in honey, is touched to the dark areas.—


Research suggests that the term “turpentine” is used imprecisely to describe either the oleoresin obtained from the longleaf pine (Pinus palustris Mill.) or the slash pine (P. elliottii Engelm.) along with other Pinus species that yield exclusively terpene oils, or the essential oil obtained from the above oleoresin. More than a half-dozen additional Pinus species have been used in the production of turpentine. The oleoresin is sometimes referred to as “gum turpentine” while turpentine or its oil (also known as spirits of turpentine) are terms for the essential oil. Following steam distillation, gum turpentine yields turpentine oil and a resin called colophony (also known as rosin). Alternately, rosin is collected by scarring the tree trunk, and various grades of material are then refined. Turpentine and rosin also are obtained by the steam distillation of wood chips of that are by-products of the lumber and paper industries, and these sources account for the bulk of the production of these compounds. In terms of volume, turpentine is the largest volume essential oil product in the world, with the bulk of production occurring in the United States. The labor-intensive production of rosin, however, occurs to a greater extent in Spain, Greece, India, and Morocco.—-Turpentine is composed primarily of monoterpene hydrocarbons, the most prevalent of which are the pinenes, camphene, and 3-carene. Rosin contains mostly diterpene resin acids such as abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, palustric acid and isopimaric acid. Numerous other compounds are present in small quantities in all turpentine products.—Canada turpentine or Canada balsam is an oleoresin obtained from the stems of the balsam fir, Abies balsamae (Family Pinaceae).


Terebinthina.—It is an exudation from different species of Pines. It is a valuable remedy, either externally or internally. Sprinkled on flannel dipped in hot water, wrung out, and then locally applied, it is a powerful counter-irritant, acting like mustard, and even blistering. It is useful for local pains, for lumbago, sciatica, and for inflammatory diseases in the abdomen. As an external application to burns, turpentine has been much used. ———Internally turpentine is anthelmintic[I1] , diaphoretic, diuretic, purgative and stimulant, It is also given as an astringent. As a destroyer of worms, it should be given in combination with Castor Oil, lest failing to purge it should over-stimulate the urinary organs. As a diuretic, it is prescribed in dropsy, and suppression of urine. As a purgative, it is useful in cases of tympanitic distension of the abdomen, and in acute stages of puerperal fever. As a stimulant to the nervous system, in neuralgia and epilepsy.
Uses of Turpentine

Turpentine has been used experimentally in a bath for the treatment of disseminated sclerosis and sexual dysfunction. It also has been studied for its antibacterial activity and inhibition of osteoclast activity. Turpentine is utilized in experimental models of inflammation to induce a systemic inflammatory immune response in animals.

Clinical data[I2]

One study from Russia documents the use of turpentine white emulsion baths in patients with sexual dysfunctions, but the safety of this treatment has not been established***** Karpukhin IV, Li AA, Gusev ME. Turpentine white emulsion baths in the rehabilation in patients with sexual dysfunctions [in Russian]. Vopr Kurortol Fizioter Lech Fiz Kult . 2000;32-33.******** –Application of yellow turpentine baths in patients with chronic prostatitis complicated by sexual dysfunctions].

[Article in Russian]-[No authors listed]
Abstract—Patients with chronic prostatitis complicated by sexual dysfunction t
ook turpentine baths with yellow solution in concentration rising from 5 to 55 ml solution per 200 l water, temperature 35-40 degrees C, duration 5-16 min, daily, 12-15 procedures. Yellow turpentine baths raise efficacy of treatment of patients with copulative dysfunction to 64% due to intensive arterial blood inflow to the sexual organs including the cavernous bodies of the penis.

Turpentine white emulsion baths in the rehabilation in patients with sexual dysfunctions].

[Article in Russian]
Karpukhin IV, Li AA, Gusev ME.
100 patients with sexual dysfunction (SD) and 20 SD patients took turpentine white emulsion baths and sodium chloride baths, respectively. The turpentine baths were given with step-by-step rise in turpentine concentration from 20 to 50 ml per 200 l of water, temperature 36-37 degrees C, duration of the procedure 10-15 min. The course consisted of 10-12 procedures which were conducted daily or each other day. The turpentine baths were more effective than sodium chloride baths (85 vs 50%, respectively).-PMID: 11247146 -[PubMed – indexed for MEDLINE]

Use of white turpentine bath emulsion and yellow turpentine solution for the treatment of chronic prostatitis complicated by excretory pathospermia].

[Article in Russian]
Karpukhin IV, Li AA, Gusev MA.
The paper reports a review of up-to-date methods for the use of white turpentine bath emulsion and yellow turpentine solution in the treatment of chronic prostatitis complicated by excretory pathospermia. The results of bath therapy are presented. It is shown that the efficiency of white turpentine bath emulsion amounted to 69.7% compared with 88.3% in patients treated with the use of yellow turpentine solution.—Preliminary reports from Russia suggest that turpentine baths may assist in the treatment of disseminated sclerosis, but the safety of this treatment has not been established.******** . Ludianskii EA. The extension of the use of physical methods of treatment to patients with disseminated sclerosis [in Russian]. Vopr Kurortol Fizioter Lech Fiz Kult . 1992;34-37.*******


Turpentine possesses antibacterial activity in vitro and has been applied topically to debride severe wounds infested with fly larvae***** Leung AY. Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients Used in Food, Drugs, and Cosmetics . New York, NY: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1980*******Benign skin tumors have been observed in animal models following chronic topical application of turpentine

[I1]Internal USES— anthelmintic [I1], diaphoretic, diuretic, purgative and stimulant, It is also given as an astringent. As a destroyer of worms- As a diuretic, it is prescribed in dropsy, and suppression of urine. As a purgative, it is useful in cases of tympanitic distension of the abdomen, and in acute stages of puerperal fever. As a stimulant to the nervous system, in neuralgia and epilepsy.

[I2]Turpentine for ED


Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Speech on Hidden Truth
None are so hopelessly enslaved, as those who falsely believe they are free. The truth has been kept from the depth of their minds by masters who rule them with lies. They feed them on falsehoods till wrong looks like right in their eyes.”